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New Product: Yukon High-Capacity Aluminum Allison Transmission Pan
Superior cooling is essential for reliable transmission shifting, whether you're on the road, on the trail, or towing heavy loads. Yukon's high-capacity transmission pan is designed with an impressive 11- to 12-quart capacity and strategically placed ribs to significantly enhance its cooling capability. Made for Allison 1000, 2000, and 2400 series automatic transmissions commonly found in 2001-2019 Chevy 2500/3500 pickups, this transmission pan not only performs exceptionally but also looks the part. It features a durable black powder coat finish, high-quality aluminum construction, a magnetic stainless fill plug, and an additional 1/8" NPT plug. While it might seem like you’ll need to flip your truck to impress your friends, your mechanic will certainly appreciate the innovative design and top-notch quality of this transmission pan. It's a valuable addition for those who demand optimal performance and reliability from their transmission.
How To Use A Dial Indicator
The keys to properly using a dial indicator are precision and patience. The payoff is a long-lasting driveline. The dial indicator is one of those specialized tools that has an intimidating reputation, but as with many things, understanding the components of the tool and how they work is half the game. A dial indicator typically measures the backlash of a ring and pinion gear. It can also be used to measure runout, the untrue movement (wobble) of a rotating object like an axle, cam or crankshaft journal, wheel, brake rotor, or the input shaft of a manual transaxle/transmission. Precision is important because in ring and pinion jobs we are dealing with shims that can be paper sheet thin… as thin as three thousandths of an inch. The first step to dial indicator enlightnement is understanding the workings of the tool. Anatomy Of A Dial Indicator When measuring backlash in a ring gear the placement of the dial indicator is key. High-pinion and low-pinion applications have the drive side gear teeth on different sides of the ring gear. This will determine where the dial indicator is set up because measurements are made on the drive side of the tooth. The Setup A dial indicator is like a high-tech erector set. It can be extended and articulated in an array of angles. Setting up the unit starts with the magnetic base which is placed on the housing and then all the armature is configured to position the tip at a 90-degree angle on the drive gear tooth with the plunger in proper alignment with the gear’s rotation angle. A vast majority of dial indicators have magnets that you position to aling the plunger and ring gear tooth. In whatever manner the base of your dial indicator secures to the housing, it must maintain a stable platform because every proceeding step relies on the accuracy and consistency of this starting point. Here, the diff housing makes a great anchor point but other applications may not offer so obvious mounting possibilities. The arm can be moved up or down the main shaft while also being adjusted inward and outward within the housing to more precisely line up the tip and the tooth face. This is where your erector set experience comes into play. There is an adjustment knob behind the dial that allows the dial assembly and plunger to swivel to better match the actuation of the tip with the angle of the gear tooth when the ring gear is moved. The goal is to make as much of a straight line measurement as you can. Tighten everything down to limit flex and be sure the tip is resting on the tooth face… any play or preload in this area will produce false readings. Also, be sure the plunger is not rubbing against the adjacent tooth which may also result in a faulty measurement. Shop Yukon dial indicators and measuring tools here. Measuring You can measure with the existing readout or zero-out the tool by loosening the bezel clamp and rotating the bezel. When measuring backlash on a ring gear be sure you’re only turning the gear and not the pinion which may influence the readout. Clamping or otherwise isolating the pinion is a good idea. When measuring a ring gear, the gear is rotated in both directions to produce freeplay. The amount of the movement is measured as straight-line travel by the tip and plunger. Even the runout of a ring gear can be evaluated by measuring the amount of movement the gear produces back and forth between the thrust bushings. Reading The Dial Most dial indicators have a one-inch stroke, meaning the plunger will only move one inch within the tool. The dial indicator’s range is denoted in the dial. The dial also has units of measure or accuracy indicated, typically in drivetrain operations a 1/1000 of an inch is the preferred unit. The main or outer dial is joined by the smaller revolution counter dial which indicates how many times the needle has gone around the outer dial. So, if the main needle travels around the outer dial twice the revolution dial will read 2. Or 0.200 inches. If the larger needle progresses past zero to 30 on the big dial, the total reading is 0.230 or 230 thousandths of an inch. Total Movement The amount of positive movement and negative movement indicated reveals the total movement. So, the measurement is made from the static beginning with the plunger engaged then it moves inward and outward and the number of units measured in each direction are added together. For instance, if the needle moves from plus five thousandths of an inch to minus 90 thousandths of an inch, the total needle movement is 15 thousandths of an inch. Additionally, if the needle moves 10 thousandths of an inch to the negative side and then five thousandths of an inch to the positive side the total movement is again 15 thousandths of an inch. Once you successfully set up the dial indicator measuring other gear sets will be super easy as long as they have the same pinion arrangement i.e. high pinion or low pinion, as the basic setup of the tool’s armature has been established and you’ll only need to fine tune the tip-to-tooth relationship. Dial indicators deserve a place of honor in your tool case. They expand our capacity, allowing us to do more jobs. They add quality to our work, by enhancing the accuracy of our actions. The end result is a job better done that will last for years to come, a win-win in anyone’s book. Shop Yukon Differential Tools
Knurled Or Smooth: Which Ball Joint Is Right For You?
First and foremost, knurled ball joints are a last resort not a first or better option. They are only to be used on suspensions that have knuckle bores and/or housing end forgings that are so worn they can no longer properly accept a smooth-body ball joint. A knurled ball joint has grooves machined into its body that serve to fatten the body, allowing the unit to press into an enlarged mounting space tightly. Bore wear can be trail abuse but usually means you have changed ball joints a number of times and the bore has succumbed to the pressure of being pressed in place. The result is those knuckle bores or end forgings have become enlarged or out of round such that a ball joint body which is the correct diameter may not fit. If you don't need the extra tightness we strongly recommend you don't use a knurled ball joint. Beware. We know that a lot of our competitors and many aftermarket service parts out there automatically come with knurled bodies. The problem is once you install a knurled ball joint you have no where to go when the knuckle bores or end forgings wear. If a knurled joint is your first service part you have sacrificed the future because you have willingly enlarged the bores and down the road you'll eventually get to a point where nothing fits. So only install a knurled ball joint because a normal smooth body unit will not press in tight enough. RANDYS offers ball joints from Yukon, Dynatrac, Carli Suspension, and ICON Vehicle Dynamics, and some applications feature both smooth and knurled body designs. Shop Ball Joints
How To: Spartan Locker Assembly
Lunchbox lockers provide reliable 100% lock-up traction at a low cost. The simplicity and ingenuity living within the Spartan Locker makes it better than conventional lunchbox lockers. The Spartan Locker’s patent-pending design replaces the spider gears in a standard carrier case without using the thrust washers, but the unit’s most revolutionary attribute is its spring-and-pin design. This characteristic makes assembly and installation straightforward and easy, as the carrier may not need to be removed in some instances. The Spartan Locker is the most DIY-friendly locker on the market and many experienced enthusiasts install the unit themselves versus taking their rig to a shop. Anatomy of a Spartan Locker Lunchbox lockers are not a singular component. They start as individual components that are assembled together and installed in an open differential carrier (and only an open differential carrier) to transform it into a mechanically locked diff. Generally speaking, Spartan Lockers include a pair of drivers, two spacers, two side couplers, four alignment pins, four pre-load springs, a hardened cross-pin shaft, a roll pin, and installation retaining wires. Shop Spartan Lockers Now Installation Tips & Tricks The Breakdown The installation process can take one of two paths: in the diff or on the workbench. It all begins with the breakdown. If your diff runs a numerically high gear ratio, like a 4.88 or 5.13, the thickness of the ring gear may make removal of the cross pin impossible with the carrier still in the diff. If this is the case… before proceeding to remove the carrier it is critical that you mark the bearing caps with a punch to denote which side of the diff each belongs on. Note, some diffs are pre-stamped, typically with a horizontal ‘H’ on one side and a vertical ‘H’ on the other. These correspond with markings on the bearing caps. Check your backlash with a dial indicator, save the measurement to ensure proper re-installation. Like the bearing caps, keep track of which side the shims and carrier races come out of. With everything arranged, the carrier can be pulled out and the ring gear can be removed from the carrier. At this point, the following steps apply whether you’re working with the diff still installed or on the bench. Remove the cross pin by punching out the roll pin and tapping the cross pin until it can be pulled out. Next, take out the sider gears and thrust washers. A tip here, rotate the gear set via the axle gears until the side gear presents itself for removal. Assembling Humpty To get the ball rolling place a spring into the hollow end of each of the alignment pins, and set them aside. Grab the drivers and install the four alignment pin and spring combinations into the respective driver holes. Push each alignment pin/spring assembly fully down into the driver, compressing the spring and insert the retaining wire into the retaining wire hole in the driver to maintain preload and keep the pin from popping out. This also creates a flush surface which aids in installation. Next, install side the couplers into the carrier case. Remember, DO NOT use thrust washers from previous setup. There is no top- or bottom-specific coupler. Each coupler should be positioned in the carrier with the teeth facing the center of the unit. Install the spacers into the centers of each driver, making sure that the “open” face of the spacer is positioned toward the driver’s teeth. It will be handy to put a dab of grease between the spacer and driver to keep them together as the installation proceeds. Take one of the center drivers, with the spacer placed in it, and install it into the carrier with its teeth surface facing the coupler’s teeth. Note, the retaining wire may need to be bent alongside the drivers to be properly installed in some carriers. Repeat this process for the remaining three alignment pin/spring assemblies as needed. Orient the drivers until the alignment pin/spring assemblies line up with their corresponding alignment pin seating notches in the opposite driver. On c-clip axle applications install the clips in their groove. Pull the retaining wires out of the alignment pin/spring assemblies using a suitable tool, allowing the alignment pin to extend fully into the seating notch in the opposite driver. Manipulate the two halves until you hear the unit snap into place or you are confident all the pins are fully engaged. Gap Insurance To ensure all the pieces are in working order a center gap measurement is needed. With the Spartan Locker components fully installed measure the distance between the two Spartan drivers using a set of feeler gauges or a slide caliper. The distance should measure between .145 and .170 inches. Measure at a few different spots around the circumference of the unit. If the measurement doesn’t fall within this range check for potential obstructions. Back Into The Diff With the assembled locker in the carrier, spin the unit until the cross pin shaft holes in the locker and the hole in the carrier line up so the cross pin can be installed properly. Be sure to keep the hole for the roll pin in alignment with the carrier roll pin hole. Install the cross pin and secure it by inserting the roll pin, which taps into place with a ball-peen hammer and a punch. Finally, re-assemble the driveline. We are illustrating this installation in a typical application. Installs in Ford 8-inch and 9-inch rear ends, Toyota V6 applications, and Suzuki Samurai are very similar and the USA Standard Gear installation manual outlines the minor differences to ensure a smooth install. Whether you plan to tackle the job yourself or farm it out to a driveline shop it’s important that you understand what is involved so at the very least you and your mechanic speak the same language. Happy wheeling. Popular Spartan Locker Applications Chrysler 8.25" with 29 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL-C8.25-29 Chrysler 8.25" with 27 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL C8.25-27 Nissan H233B Front with 31 Spline SL NPATROL-31 Nissan M226 Rear with 32 Spline SL NTITAN-32 Dana 30 Jeep JL M186 Differential SL D30JL-27 Dana 44HD differential with 30 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL D44HD-30 Dana 44 differential with 30 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL D44-30 Dana 44 differential with 19 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL D44-19 Dana 60 with 30 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL D60-30 Dana 60 differential with 35 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL D60-35 GM 12 bolt car & truck with 30 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL GM12-30 GM 8.5" with 28 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL GM8.5-28 GM 8.5" with 30 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL GM8.5-30 Suzuki Samurai differential with 26 spline axles SL SUZSAM Model 20 differential with 29 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL M20-29 Model 35 differential with 27 spline axles and a 1.560" carrier, includes heavy-duty cross pin SL M35-1.5-27 Toyota 8" differential with 30 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL T8-30 Toyota 7.5" with 27 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL T7.5-27 Toyota V6 with 30 spline axles SL TV6-30 Ford 8.8", 31 spline, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL F8.8-31 Ford 9", 28 or 31 spline SL F9-28-31
How To: Spartan Locker Assembly
Lunchbox lockers provide reliable 100% lock-up traction at a low cost. The simplicity and ingenuity living within the Spartan Locker makes it better than conventional lunchbox lockers. The Spartan Locker’s patent-pending design replaces the spider gears in a standard carrier case without using the thrust washers, but the unit’s most revolutionary attribute is its spring-and-pin design. This characteristic makes assembly and installation straightforward and easy, as the carrier may not need to be removed in some instances. The Spartan Locker is the most DIY-friendly locker on the market and many experienced enthusiasts install the unit themselves versus taking their rig to a shop. Anatomy of a Spartan Locker Lunchbox lockers are not a singular component. They start as individual components that are assembled together and installed in an open differential carrier (and only an open differential carrier) to transform it into a mechanically locked diff. Generally speaking, Spartan Lockers include a pair of drivers, two spacers, two side couplers, four alignment pins, four pre-load springs, a hardened cross-pin shaft, a roll pin, and installation retaining wires. Shop Spartan Lockers Now Installation Tips & Tricks The Breakdown The installation process can take one of two paths: in the diff or on the workbench. It all begins with the breakdown. If your diff runs a numerically high gear ratio, like a 4.88 or 5.13, the thickness of the ring gear may make removal of the cross pin impossible with the carrier still in the diff. If this is the case… before proceeding to remove the carrier it is critical that you mark the bearing caps with a punch to denote which side of the diff each belongs on. Note, some diffs are pre-stamped, typically with a horizontal ‘H’ on one side and a vertical ‘H’ on the other. These correspond with markings on the bearing caps. Check your backlash with a dial indicator, save the measurement to ensure proper re-installation. Like the bearing caps, keep track of which side the shims and carrier races come out of. With everything arranged, the carrier can be pulled out and the ring gear can be removed from the carrier. At this point, the following steps apply whether you’re working with the diff still installed or on the bench. Remove the cross pin by punching out the roll pin and tapping the cross pin until it can be pulled out. Next, take out the sider gears and thrust washers. A tip here, rotate the gear set via the axle gears until the side gear presents itself for removal. Assembling Humpty To get the ball rolling place a spring into the hollow end of each of the alignment pins, and set them aside. Grab the drivers and install the four alignment pin and spring combinations into the respective driver holes. Push each alignment pin/spring assembly fully down into the driver, compressing the spring and insert the retaining wire into the retaining wire hole in the driver to maintain preload and keep the pin from popping out. This also creates a flush surface which aids in installation. Next, install side the couplers into the carrier case. Remember, DO NOT use thrust washers from previous setup. There is no top- or bottom-specific coupler. Each coupler should be positioned in the carrier with the teeth facing the center of the unit. Install the spacers into the centers of each driver, making sure that the “open” face of the spacer is positioned toward the driver’s teeth. It will be handy to put a dab of grease between the spacer and driver to keep them together as the installation proceeds. Take one of the center drivers, with the spacer placed in it, and install it into the carrier with its teeth surface facing the coupler’s teeth. Note, the retaining wire may need to be bent alongside the drivers to be properly installed in some carriers. Repeat this process for the remaining three alignment pin/spring assemblies as needed. Orient the drivers until the alignment pin/spring assemblies line up with their corresponding alignment pin seating notches in the opposite driver. On c-clip axle applications install the clips in their groove. Pull the retaining wires out of the alignment pin/spring assemblies using a suitable tool, allowing the alignment pin to extend fully into the seating notch in the opposite driver. Manipulate the two halves until you hear the unit snap into place or you are confident all the pins are fully engaged. Gap Insurance To ensure all the pieces are in working order a center gap measurement is needed. With the Spartan Locker components fully installed measure the distance between the two Spartan drivers using a set of feeler gauges or a slide caliper. The distance should measure between .145 and .170 inches. Measure at a few different spots around the circumference of the unit. If the measurement doesn’t fall within this range check for potential obstructions. Back Into The Diff With the assembled locker in the carrier, spin the unit until the cross pin shaft holes in the locker and the hole in the carrier line up so the cross pin can be installed properly. Be sure to keep the hole for the roll pin in alignment with the carrier roll pin hole. Install the cross pin and secure it by inserting the roll pin, which taps into place with a ball-peen hammer and a punch. Finally, re-assemble the driveline. We are illustrating this installation in a typical application. Installs in Ford 8-inch and 9-inch rear ends, Toyota V6 applications, and Suzuki Samurai are very similar and the USA Standard Gear installation manual outlines the minor differences to ensure a smooth install. Whether you plan to tackle the job yourself or farm it out to a driveline shop it’s important that you understand what is involved so at the very least you and your mechanic speak the same language. Happy wheeling. Popular Spartan Locker Applications Chrysler 8.25" with 29 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL-C8.25-29 Chrysler 8.25" with 27 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL C8.25-27 Nissan H233B Front with 31 Spline SL NPATROL-31 Nissan M226 Rear with 32 Spline SL NTITAN-32 Dana 30 Jeep JL M186 Differential SL D30JL-27 Dana 44HD differential with 30 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL D44HD-30 Dana 44 differential with 30 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL D44-30 Dana 44 differential with 19 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL D44-19 Dana 60 with 30 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL D60-30 Dana 60 differential with 35 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL D60-35 GM 12 bolt car & truck with 30 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL GM12-30 GM 8.5" with 28 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL GM8.5-28 GM 8.5" with 30 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL GM8.5-30 Suzuki Samurai differential with 26 spline axles SL SUZSAM Model 20 differential with 29 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL M20-29 Model 35 differential with 27 spline axles and a 1.560" carrier, includes heavy-duty cross pin SL M35-1.5-27 Toyota 8" differential with 30 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL T8-30 Toyota 7.5" with 27 spline axles, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL T7.5-27 Toyota V6 with 30 spline axles SL TV6-30 Ford 8.8", 31 spline, includes heavy-duty cross pin shaft SL F8.8-31 Ford 9", 28 or 31 spline SL F9-28-31